Stretching down eastern Spain from the northern reaches of the Valencian Community to the Region of Murcia are six official wine regions, or Denominaciones de Origen (D.O.): Alicante, Valencia, Utiel-Requena, Bullas, Jumilla and Yecla. Alongside these are a number of excellent Vinos de la Tierra (VT) and Vinos de Calidad (VC), all helping to make this one of Spain’s most fascinating – yet often overlooked – wine-producing areas.
As I mentioned last month, the dominant grape variety across much of this region is Monastrell, famous for producing rich, characterful red wines. However, it is far from the only grape worth discovering. Bobal, another native red variety, is enjoying a well-deserved revival, while white grapes such as Macabeo and Moscatel produce fresh, aromatic wines that deserve far more attention. Although the region is best known for its reds, there are some excellent whites waiting to be discovered too.
The name Levante literally means “the place where the sun rises,” a fitting description for Spain’s eastern Mediterranean coast. Over the coming months, we’ll explore each of these wine regions in turn, beginning close to home in D.O. Bullas, the region I know best.
Beyond the town of Bullas lies one of the Region of Murcia’s best-kept secrets: the beautiful Aceniche Valley. Here, old bush vines weave between pine forests and fragrant monte bajo – the wild rosemary, thyme and Mediterranean scrub that perfumes the hillsides. Many vineyards climb to over 700 metres above sea level, where cool nights and warm sunny days allow Monastrell to ripen slowly, producing wines with freshness, elegance and balance that often surprise those discovering the region for the first time.
Bullas may still be one of Spain’s lesser-known wine regions, but it is increasingly attracting the attention of some of the country’s most respected wine professionals. Murcian sommelier and wine educator Joan Belda Tortosa has described local winemaker Jorge Piernas as “a leading figure in winemaking both regionally and nationally” – high praise from one of the region’s most respected wine voices. Alongside him, former Nariz de Oro winner Pedro Martínez of De Nariz is crafting elegant, terroir-driven Monastrells that are helping redefine what this historic grape can achieve.
Walking through Bullas’ old vineyards with Jorge Piernas gives you a real sense of place. I’ve also come to know Pedro Martínez over the years, and what strikes me most is the quiet confidence they share. There is no desire to imitate Rioja or Ribera del Duero, only a determination to produce wines that honestly reflect this remarkable landscape. Alongside projects such as Pura Viña, and several other talented producers quietly making their mark, Bullas has become one of Spain’s most exciting emerging wine regions.
Few expect such nuance from this corner of Spain. Perhaps that’s exactly what makes Bullas such a rewarding discovery.
Until next month, Cheers, Tony – www.senseexperiences.net